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GUCCI
「グッチ(GUCCI)」が5月14日、ロンドンの近代美術館 テート・モダンで2025年クルーズ コレクションを発表した。
グッチとロンドンのつながり
クリエイティブ・ディレクターのサバト・デ・サルノ(Sabato De Sarno)による初のクルーズコレクションの開催地となったロンドンは、サバトが多くのインスピレーションを得た街であると同時に、グッチの歴史とも密接に結びついている街でもある。1897年、グッチの創業者であるグッチオ・グッチ(Guccio Gucci)は若かりし頃、ロンドンの高級ホテル「ザ・サヴォイ」でポーター兼エレベーターボーイとして働いていた。宿泊客のラゲージを運びながら、上流階級の人々の嗜好やライフスタイルに接し、さまざまなアイデアや夢を膨らませていったことから、ロンドンはグッチにとって"始まりの地"でもある。
無機質な空間に広がる緑のガーデン
ショー会場として選ばれたテート・モダンは、発電所を改築した建物で、さまざまな人々と文化をつなぐ公共空間であり、多様性と独自性を備えた交流の場としてサバトのビジョンを表現するには理想の舞台だったという。コンクリート打放しの「タンク」と呼ばれる人工的な空間にみずみずしいグリーンが敷かれ、相対する要素が融合した詩的な風景が広がった。
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タフさと軽やかさのコントラスト
モデルたちは美しい曲線を描く螺旋階段から登場。ファーストルックは、スエードにGGパターンがエンボスされたダブルブレストのジャケットに、シフォンのボータイシャツと、ローウエストのウォッシュドジーンズをスタイリング。続くルックでも、レザーのアウターとオーガンザドレス、ジップアップジャケットとシフォンスカートなど、素材のタフさと軽やかさ、フォーマルとカジュアルといったコントラストが目立った。
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開催地である英国スタイルへのオマージュとして、繊細なビーズ刺繍のフリンジで表現されたタータンチェックやテーラードのセットアップも登場した。
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"デイリーに着られる"グッチが加速
特徴的だったのは、カモミールのフラワーモチーフ。冒頭のブラウスや、レースのスカート、ジーンズ、テクニカルギャバジンで仕立てられたアウター、シフォンドレスに、刺繍や3Dレーザーカット、プリントなどさまざまな方法で施され、ソフトで可憐な印象。サバトが就任して以来グッチで提案してきた日常に根差すラグジュアリーのムードをさらに加速させた。
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アイコンのローファーやホースビットがあしらわれたフラットのバレエシューズ、そしてパールのチョーカーがデイリースタイルに馴染む。インターロッキングG モチーフが中央にデザインされた「グッチ ブロンディ」バッグは、1970年代初頭に発表されたモデルを現代にアップデート。レザーやファブリックといったさまざまな素材とカラーで披露された。
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グッチをまとった豪華ゲストたち
会場には夏木マリや、ロンドンを拠点にするアーティスト リナ・サワヤマ、大平修蔵のほか、グローバル・ブランドアンバサダーの韓国人女優パク・ギュヨン、Stray Kidsのリノ、デュア・リパ、リナ・リパ姉妹、ケイト・モス、ライラ・モス親子、デミ・ムーア、デボラ・ハリー、マーク・ロンソンなどが来場した。
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夏木マリ&StrayKidsリノ
Image by Hiroyuki Ozawa
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