![sulvam 2025年春夏](https://fashionsnap-assets.com/asset/format=auto,width=1200/collection/images/2024/09/sulvam_25ss00001-11c56275-5da8-44a1-b79a-ff4fddd9d2b0.jpg)
IMAGE by: Runway:FASHIONSNAP(Koji Hirano)、Backstage:FASHIONSNAP(Ippei Saito)
藤田哲平が手掛ける「サルバム(sulvam)」が、「Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2025 S/S」でランウェイショーを開催し、2025年春夏コレクションを発表した。
サルバムは、2014年にブランドを立ち上げた後、第1回「東京ファッションアワード 2015」を受賞。「ジョンローレンス サリバン(JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN)」「ファセッタズム(FACETASM)」などの5ブランドともにパリで展示会を開く支援を受け、合同ショールーム「showroom.tokyo」に出展した。その後、イタリア・フィレンツェのメンズの見本市ピッティ・イマージネ・ウオモ(Pitti Immagine Uomo)やミラノメンズファッションウィークでショーを行い、2018年にはパリでのコレクション発表をスタート。2022年にはフランス法人を立ち上げ、パリにアトリエを構えた。2024年春夏コレクションからは、それまでのメンズに加え、本格的にウィメンズラインも始動した。
日本では3年ぶりの開催となる今回のショーは、楽天が2020年春夏コレクションから開始した、日本発のファッションブランドを支援するプロジェクト「バイアール(by R)」の一環として実施した。舞台は、デザイナー 藤田の出身校でもある文化服装学院の遠藤記念館大ホール。観客が四方を囲み、中央を新作をまとったモデルが歩いた。
コレクションでは、6月にパリで発表したメインラインに加え、2024年に立ち上げたウィメンズラインのアイテムを初披露。メインラインでは、ブランドの代名詞とも言えるテーラードジャケットのほか、花柄と迷彩柄を組み合わせたデザインのアロハシャツや右身頃と左身頃で着丈が違うシャツジャケット、着物の羽織のような形のアウターなどを展開した。ウィメンズラインからは、フリルがついたロングワンピースやボーダーのブラウス、無地のテーラードジャケットなど、あえてデザインに「余白」を残すことで着る人本来の魅力を引き立てる女性服が登場した。
また、次世代育成の一環として、文化服装学院の学生が制作過程を手伝った、上下レッドで彩られた鮮やかな3ルックが登場。同企画は、藤田の「未来の世代にファッションを繋げていきたい」という想いに母校である文化服装学院が賛同し、楽天との連携の下で実施される運びとなった。藤田が引いたパターンを基に、縫製工場のヘルプなど、可能な範囲で学生が携わったという。
ショーを終えて藤田は、日本のファッション教育について「海外と比べて、日本では現場に出して教育する機会が少ない。これでは海外と日本の差がどんどん開いてしまうので、もっと現場で経験を積ませるべき」とコメント。「今後は、これまでよりも積極的に後進育成に関わり、日本のファッションの未来のために尽力したい」と語った。
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